I cut my teeth on chenin blanc, McLaren Vale chenin at that, but the wines I was drinking in the late 1980s didn’t bear a great deal of resemblance to this majestic offering.

I’m a bit blown away. Instead of being the steak knives in the range this vies for top spot. It has flavour and texture but it’s the way brine and smoky, reductive characters play in with the fruit that really gets you in. This is a sophisticated white wine. It’s all river stones and nashi pear, apple and cedar, though it’s defined by its smoke/salt/stone characters. It’s also exceptionally poised, dry and tense, all of which suggest that it has a seriously good future ahead of it.